Soil and site requirements

Good soil moisture drainage is essential for growing healthy, productive trees. Soils with standing water or ones that remain saturated for even a day or two following a heavy rain are unsuitable for fruit trees. If this describes your soil, you can still grow fruit by planting trees in well-drained, raised beds. Prepare beds by bringing in or scraping up topsoil into a 15-30 cm mound at least 2,5m to 3m across. High organic potting soil mixes are less desirable because they encourage continual fall growth and make young trees more vulnerable to winter freeze injury. A raised bed can be framed with railroad ties or edging timbers for a more attractive appearance.

A soil fertility test before planting helps avoid undesirable sites, and minerals such as phosphorus and potassium can be added before planting where needed. Information on soil testing is available from your Extension office.

Plentiful sunlight is a key to maximizing fruit production. Choose an area that is sunny most or all of the day. Early morning sunshine is particularly important to dry dew from the plants; thereby, reducing the incidence of diseases. If the planting site does not get sufficient sun, expect reduced performance from the trees.

Soil preparation and planting
Thoroughly prepare the soil by deeply cultivating, either by hand or with a rototiller before planting. At this time also make any recommended adjustments to the soil.

Plant in the winter, preferably around July 1, to allow for root development before summer growth.  Before planting, soak the roots for no more than 1 hour to ensure they are not under any moisture stress.

Dig the planting hole just large enough for the tree's root system to be spread in a natural position. Avoid digging a hole deeper than the root system as loose soil beneath the roots usually causes trees to sink too deeply. Larger holes filled with topsoil are of no benefit unless the soil at the planting site is extremely poor (rocky, calcareous, etc.). In this case, use raised beds.

Stone fruit trees will develop at least a 4.5m diameter limbspread at maturity. Plant them at least 6 m  apart to avoid excessive competition. Set plants at approximately the same depth that they grew in the nursery. Using the soil taken out of the hole, firm it around the roots and do not add fertilizer to the hole. Water the trees thoroughly soon after they are set; be sure that air pockets in the hole are filled and that the soil is at the proper level on the base of the tree after watering.

 

Pruning and training
 

Pruning a young tree controls its shape by developing a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches. The open center pruning system is best suited for stone fruit trees. Since most fruit trees bear fruit on wood that grew the previous year, this wood is regrown from year to year. New growth needs full light or it will shade out and die with all the production occurring on the outer perimeter of the tree. The open center system maximizes light penetration to all parts of the tree, resulting in fruit production over the entire tree.

Light pruning can be done any time of the year. However, perform major pruning only during the dormant season or late winter just before budbreak.

 

Irrigation

Water is essential for producing large fruit and maintaining healthy trees. Whether trees are watered by drip irrigation, sprinklers, the garden hose or rainfall makes little difference as long as the trees receive sufficient water. Normally trees need water at least every 3 weeks. In summer heat, provide a deep soaking irrigation at least weekly to maintain healthy trees. Overwatering can damage or drown trees. Sticky clay soils are especially vulnerable to water saturation and should be allowed to dry for a few days between each watering.

Weed control

Eliminating weed competition around young trees is critical for survival and rapid growth. Heavy weed or grass competition results in severe nitrogen deficiency (yellow foliage with red spots); trees will produce little or no growth and often may die. Ideally, keep the soil surface weed-free in an area at least as wide as the limb spread of the tree.

The safest way to do this is with a hoe. Chemicals that will do a good job are available, but they are hazardous if used carelessly. Do not attempt chemical weed control unless all aspects of safety and sprayer calibration are well understood.

 

Fertilization

Fruit trees can be fertilized the first year after they leaf out in the spring. Place the fertilizer at and slightly beyond the canopy edge of the tree but never against the trunk. If your soil pH is above 7.5, do not apply phosphorus fertilizer.

Thinning

Fruit trees grown under favorable conditions set more fruit than can be properly developed. Removing excess fruit is necessary to ensure satisfactory development of the remaining fruit and to prevent limb breakage and shortened tree life from overcropping. Remove the fruit by hand approximately 4 weeks after bloom. Space fruit about one every 15 to 18 cm on a branch.

Disease and insect control

The best quality fruit is produced when diseases and insects are controlled. Unless an efficient spray program is maintained, it is not advisable to plant stone fruit trees. The most serious diseases are brown rot, scab and leaf curl.

Insect problems include scale, plum curculio, catfacing insects and peach tree borer. The first line of defense is good sanitation. Remove old diseased fruit and wood as it appears on the tree. Your county Extension office has information on timing, methods and materials to control diseases and insects. Many garden centers sell home orchard fruit tree sprays containing an insecticide and fungicide. Applying one of the products according to label directions usually controls most insect and disease pests.